V O G U E | Diaspora: Jean Paul Gaultier

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk

This international exhibition devoted to Gaultier's oeuvre marks the Dallas Museum of Art's first foray into the art of contemporary fashion. Organized by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the highly-acclaimed exhibition explores how Gaultier's provocative, innovative, and transformative design aesthetic has paved a new way to both wear and look at fashion. For over 35 years, the enfant terrible of French fashion has commanded the runway with unconventional collections for women and men ranging in subjects from Dada to the Christo Effect, Chic Rabbis to Madonnas, and Tattoos to Trompe l'oeil. Incorporating a host of international cultural references, both high and low, familiar and taboo, Gaultier's vision continues to promote a strong social message that empowers women and men to embrace their sexuality and individuality.

Included among the new exhibition additions premiering in Dallas are a Kokekodo ensemble for men from JPG's Haute Couture F/W 2011-12 Black Swan collection; an American flag coat made from ostrich feathers, leather on tulle created for Kylie Minogue for her first American tour in 2009; and an eye-popping motorcycle suit with headlights costume designed for Pedro Almodovar's 1993 film "Kika." These plus stunning stage outfits worn by Madonna are just a few of the 130 pieces for men and women spanning from 1976 to 2011 on view.

November is also the publication date for the 424-page exhibition catalogue (Abrams for the English edition), which features interviews with Gaultier friends, colleagues, and muses including Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Carine Roitfeld, Dita Von Teese, Pedro Almodovar, among others.

In her review of the exhibition for The International Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes wrote: "In every way, technically, artistically and aesthetically, the exhibition devoted to the iconoclastic French couturier is a triumph."

Describing the importance of hosting the U.S. debut, Kevin W. Tucker, The Margot B. Perot Curator of Decorative Arts and Design and coordinating curator of the exhibition at the Dallas Museum of Art stated,
"Jean Paul Gaultier's work transcends more restrictive definitions of 'fashion' to command attention as an exploration of his interests in popular culture, notions of exoticism, beauty, and the spectrum of visual and performing arts. He has an omnivorous passion for potential sources of inspiration to create remarkable designs which become transformative and expressive costumes for their wearers."

Jean Paul Gaultier

Les Actrices (Movie Stars) collection, Haute Couture F/W 2009-2010

© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Mexico collection, "Paloma" gown, Haute Couture S/S 2010
Model: Arielle Dombasle
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Parisiennes collection, Haute Couture F/W 2010-2011
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Parisiennes collection, Fishnet tights, Haute Couture F/W 2010-2011
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Dita Von Teese, Flaunt, 2003
Dada collection, prêt-a-porter S/S 1983
© Perou

First collection, women's prêt-a-porter S/S 1977
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Calligraphy collection, Labyrinth gown, Haute Couture S/S 2009
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Body corset worn by Madonna, Blond Ambition World Tour, 1990
Dazed & Confused, April 2008
© Emil Larsson

Costume worn by Victoria Abril in Kika, directed by Pedro Almodovar, 1993
© Jean-Marie Leroy_El Deseo D.A. S.L.U.

Divine Jacqueline collection, Haute Couture S/S 1999
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Hommage a l'Afrique (Tribute to Africa collection), La Mariee dress
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

American flag coat created by Gaultier for Kylie Minogue, For Me, For You Tour (KylieUSA2009)
Collection of Kylie Minogue, London © C. Guest Montreal Museum

Black Swan collection, Kokekodo ensemble, Haute Couture F/W 2011-2012
© Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier

Catalogue cover, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier
Images: Miles Aldridge, Immaculate No. 3, Numero, 2007
Herb Ritts, Jean Paul Gaultier, Tokyo 1990
Graphic Design by Paprika

The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk

On view at the Dallas Museum of Art from November 13, 2011 to February 12, 2012

Following Dallas, the exhibition tour will include:

Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, March 24-August 19, 2012

Fundacion Mapfre - Instituto de Cultura, Madrid, September 26-November 18, 2012

Kunsthal Rotterdam, the Netherlands, February 9-May 12, 2013

Arkitekturmuseet, Stockholm, June 17-September 22, 2013

To view The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk previous exhibit at The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, click here.

Courtesy Dallas Museum of Art (DMA)
This post is also featured on the Huffington Post

Assistir Filme »

Dubbed fashion's enfant terrible by the press from the time of his first runway shows in the 1970s, Jean Paul Gaultier is indisputably one of the most important fashion designers of recent decades. Currently on view at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA), The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk is the first international exhibition devoted to the French couturier.

Very early, Gaultier's avant-garde fashion reflected an understanding of a multicultural society's issues, shaking up - with invariable good humor - established societal and aesthetic codes. Through twists, transformations, transgressions and reinterpretations, he not only erases the boundaries between cultures but also the sexes, creating a new androgyny or playing with subverting hyper sexualized fashion codes.

The exhibition features approximately 140 ensembles, mainly from the designer's couture collections, but also from his pret-a-porter line, along with their accessories. Created between the early 1970s and 2010, these pieces have, for the most part, never before been exhibited. Many other pieces are also being presented for the first time such as sketches, stage costumes, excerpts from films, runway shows, dance performances and more.

" I think the way people dress today is a form of artistic expression. Saint Laurent, for instance, has made great art. Art lies in the way the whole outfit is put together. Take Jean Paul Gaultier, what he does is really art."
~~ Andy Warhol (Mondo Uomo, 1984)

"Barbes" collection / Pret-a-Porter F/W 1984-1985
@Patrice Stable / Jean Paul Gaultier